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Newport OR, Beverly Beach, & the Devil's Punchbowl

11/28/2020

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I saw them standing together for the gold and green fall, their heads in a romantic mist—tall evergreens and their more changeable partners--as we traveled through the Oregon Coast Range. Too late in the evening, and no place to sit for a photo on the sidelines of the highway, I could only try to sketch the picture into my memory’s book. We had traveled south on I-5 from Portland (about 1.5 hours) to Corvallis, then headed west on Hwy 20 (another hour) to get to Newport, OR.

Newport in November might not be the first thought for a coast vacation, but the plan was to take advantage of the Oregon Zoo membership’s reciprocal arrangement with other zoos, aquariums, and safaris. The aquarium in Newport was the offered venue for November. Unfortunately, due to lost revenues in 2020 because of the COVID crisis, they didn’t give us the promised discount. A timed ticket was required, which meant limited visitors and improved photo ops.

A brief list of Newport’s things to see and do:
https://discovernewport.com/play

The Oregon Coast Aquarium—our experience below
The Hatfield Marine Science Center—was closed; for more info (including a 2 min video) see https://seagrant.oregonstate.edu/visitor-center
South Beach State Park--what we saw and didn’t below
Yaquina Bay State Park & Lighthouse—discussed below
Historic Bayfront—part of our report below
Nye Beach—from our perspective, below
Don (& Ann) Davis Memorial and other local parks—described below
Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area and historic lighthouse—a sight to see, below
Agate Beach State Recreational Site--below our hotel
Beverly Beach State Park—between Newport and (Depoe Bay) Lincoln City
Devil’s Punchbowl--we checked out on our way home (looping through Lincoln City)

We stayed at Best Western Agate Beach, and ate at their on-site restaurant, which two I’ll review at bottom of this post, and mention a few nearby options for traveler's necessaries, and the Chalet Restaurant & Bakery.

The Oregon Coast Aquarium
     Though the early November sky threatened rain, the rain held back as we toured the outdoor area. It wasn’t quite the weather to make us wish we had a picnic to eat at the tables on the grounds, and as we left the wind bid us good-bye, but we had a great experience, even with COVID adjustments. I was glad enough to have a helper for the packed gravel paths, which are not too hilly, but in aggregate energy eaters.
    Outdoor habitats host harbor seals, sea otters, birds of various feathers in the aviaries. The aquarium evokes awe as you walk a viewing tunnel through shark and ray infested waters, ocean habitats like “Halibut Flats”, “Orford Reef”, magical jellyfish tanks, all complemented by beautiful sea life murals. Rocky Shore Touch Pool was closed for COVID. The ample gift shop was full of wonders of nature and art, books, clothes, stuffed and toy animals, and memorabilia. Outdoor lights were set up for an evening holiday event they hoped for. Looks like we just missed their temporary re-closure. https://aquarium.org/

South Beach
     As we explored the South Beach area by car, we found the Hatfield Marine Science Center was closed. I wanted to find the public fishing area near the bottom of the bridge over the bay, but it’s a bit hidden in an industrial area. The crabbing pier is behind the Rogue Ales & Spirits building. Park and walk or roll with your gear, or just to look. A restroom and catch cleaning site is right there almost under the bridge.
     Drive under the bridge to the west side, where there’s a little picnic area with a nice view of the bridge and bay, and on to SW Jetty Way for views of the water and waves crashing the jetty, as well as the beautiful bridge. You drive along the north border of South Beach State Park, which you can hike to, but for driving access go south of town on Hwy 101 to S. Beach State Park road. The park has a hospitality center, accessible camping (including yurts), trails, picnicking, viewpoint, wildlife viewing and flush restrooms. Near the campground are horseshoes and playground, firewood for sale, kayak tours. Not so accessible: 9 hole disc golf course, beach access, fishing, dump station. See https://stateparks.oregon.gov/index.cfm?do=park.profile&parkId=149 including photos, amenities, brochures, map, and a couple great 2 min informative videos.
Update: Aug 2021 I traveled north from Florence OR on a crabbing trip to Waldport, and came as far north as Newport (only 16 mi Waldport to Newport) to fill in photos of South Beach State Park and such. Scroll below to see what I saw. I had to divide that trip into 4 parts for posting . . . part 1:

https://www.travelpacificnw.com/accessible-travel-blog/crabbing-on-the-coast-waldport-or

Yaquina Bay State Park
Just on the north end of the bridge watch carefully for signs of how to get to Yaquina Bay State Park. This is a day-use area offering flushing restrooms (marked as accessible), picnicking (some covered, most uncovered), beach, and a lighthouse (wasn’t open Nov 2020). Next to the restroom is a nice map sign of the area and a reminder to clean up after pets. Nice ocean views and informative signs make a memorable visit. For more info, including tide tables & whale watching, see

Historic Bayfront
     Opposite side of Hwy 101 from Yaquina Bay State Park is the Historic Bayfront district. This combination of working commercial fishing harbor includes shopping, restaurants, exhibits (like Ripley’s Believe it or Not), boardwalk and benches, marina, and more. Parking is at a premium. There are public restrooms, no doubt popular; I advise bringing your own TP and wipes. This is one of 3 touristy treks in Newport: https://discovernewport.com/shop
Update: photos from Aug 2021 below.

Nye Beach
    Don’t believe every sign that directs you to Nye Beach, NW 3rd Street ends in a very uncomfortable dead end. OK for walkers looking for an overlook of the beach below. But for parking (if you’re lucky, when it’s nice), take NW Beach Drive off NW Coast St. There’s a public restroom, picnic tables, beach access for able-bodied, Newport Visual Arts Center (temporarily closed). The road is a one-way U and passes the famous Chowder Bowl and other restaurants. It’s a steep hill, and not much parking for its popularity. Nye Stay offers close accommodations, as well as the following:

Don (& Ann) Davis Memorial and other local parks
     There’s more to this park than at first (or 2nd) sight might admit. It has a gazebo, cobblestone path, beach access, sitting area. The satellite map looks like the path down to the beach is possibly paved. It’s across from the Newport Performing Arts Center one way, and a take-out the other direction. Just around the bend of SW Elizabeth St. are a couple primely positioned rental homes I’ve always been drawn to. And just south down SW Elizabeth St are
Elizabeth Oceanfront Suites
Shilo Inns Newport Oceanfront
Hallmark Resort Hotel
     Just around the block from the Davis Park is Coast Park with a playground (100 SW Coast St), and a 4 min walk from there (.2 mi) is Mombetsu City Park, a small Japanese garden. For more info about Newport City Parks, see https://newportoregon.gov/dept/par/parks.asp

Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area and historic lighthouse
     The accessible tide pool is pretty well sanded in, the ranger informed me. The Interpretive center was closed Nov 2020 for COVID, but I’ve toured it before, and it is definitely worth going to see. The weather was just stormy enough to create crashing and splashing waves, making me more determined to come to the coast for a winter storm watch. Hope the weather won’t be too good or too bad Jan 2021!
     An accessible vault toilet stands in the parking lot of the lighthouse area. Paved paths offer nice views (bring your binoculars). Not many people were there Nov 2020 to interrupt the dramatic view of the lighthouse. The nice wide, paved path to the lighthouse has interpretive signs. Even if you can’t climb the stairs to the top, it’s another worthwhile wheel or walk out to the lighthouse, and the decks there.
     It can be a bit confusing that both lighthouses in Newport are named Yaquina . . . one is at the bay, one at the head. Don’t miss either. https://discovernewport.com/lighthouses includes a .5 min video from the top. Click on the link to Yaquina Head Lighthouse, then click on the satellite view of the map, zoom in as close as you can, and see the amazing 3-D image of the cliffs and ocean—it’s a WOW experience!

Agate Beach State Recreational Site
     Down at the beach below Best Western Agate Beach, on NW Oceanview Dr. is Agate Beach State Recreation Site. A tiny bit of parking is right on NW Oceanview, but drive a bit further north to Agate Beach State Wayside east of the road, where there is a restroom (site says accessible flush), more parking, picnic area, grassy room to run for kids, and a tunnel under the road to access the beach. Google map says it’s a sandy spot for clamming and surfing. The Ocean to Bay Trail goes through there. https://stateparks.oregon.gov/index.cfm?do=park.profile&parkId=152

Beverly Beach State Park
     This was a great family reunion site several years ago. Some of us stayed in a yurt. It’s not for everyone, but there is just about something for everyone here. 3 campsites and 6 yurts are accessible. There are flush toilets and showers, firewood for sale, group camping, yurt meeting hall, RV facilities, playground, reservable picnic shelters-- not all available during COVID restrictions. https://stateparks.oregon.gov/index.cfm?do=park.profile&parkId=164

Devil’s Punchbowl

Picnic tables in a grassy area with trees and shrubs, paved paths and ocean views with interpretive signs, restroom, limited parking. A very pleasant place to picnic or play a board game in nature. The site says the restrooms are flushing, but not accessible. Across the street is Mo’s Seafood & Chowder (closed for winter), Flying Dutchman Winery, and Cliffside Coffee & Sweets if you forgot your picnic.
https://stateparks.oregon.gov/index.cfm?do=park.profile&parkId=156
http://www.moschowder.com/mos-west-menus/
http://www.dutchmanwinery.com/
https://www.cliffsidecoffeeandsweets.com/

Best Western Agate Beach,
with Sea Glass Bistro & Lounge
https://www.agatebeachinn.com/
     Some years ago I stayed and ate at this hotel, just before it was renovated. I had quite a list of suggestions, so I was interested to see how the hotel had been changed. The basic hotel design was not changed. There was still a substantial carpeted ramp to get up to the ADA rooms, all on the main floor (no ADA upper rooms, and the non-ADA rooms have wheelchair inaccessibly narrow bath doors). The halls by the elevators have comfy chairs with nice views. The pool was available by reservation (because of COVID restrictions), and we didn’t have time to go in to see it more closely.
     The bistro food was much improved and not as expensive (though not inexpensive). My helper had the steak, and I had the toasted shaved prime rib & cheese sandwich. The beef was tender and delicious. My helper enjoyed the pancake stack the next morn, but I had brought my own favorite oatmeal mix and hot chocolate for breakfast. The restaurant is still only accessible by an ugly old elevator the staff have to work it for you, and the tables with picturesque views are inaccessibly down stairs.
   I believe I had the very same room I’d had before. It now had a nice décor and was a comfortable stay. I was glad for an ADA 2-queen accommodation, since I needed a separate bed for my helper.   Thankfully the appliances were updated. The armoire had a lowered bar, beside the usual iron & board, and luggage rack. Once you train your eyes to look past the lower roof, the view from the sliding door was not bad. The balcony was tiny, but offered a bit of security from somehow falling out the slider if open. You can drive or walk around the back of the hotel to get to the beach access.
     The bathroom was acceptable for me, with a tub and lots of bars (not all necessarily useful), though there was not a lot of maneuver room to get into the tub past the toilet. A fold down bench was provided in the tub: could be helpful for some. I had to have my helper get the handheld shower down for me. I was able to stretch to reach towels. The tub side was not quite 15” high, 24” wide, and 14” deep, with a nice shape.
     A fold down bar system was helpful for me to transfer on and off the toilet. The TP roll was difficult to reach on the wall behind the toilet. A splashguard behind the toilet could remedy the obvious problem of people with a bad aim. The toilet was a little more than 17” high.

     Next to Best Western Agate Beach is a Walmart, and a person with able legs could walk over from the upper parking lot of the hotel (back of the store). But the hotel is on a hill, and a disabled person would need to drive around. Safeway is just .6 mi south, across the highway from the hotel, and Fred Meyer is .7 mi south, also just across the highway. Both are in shopping centers. A previous stay in Newport I tried out the Chalet Restaurant & Bakery, in the same area as Safeway, and the food and décor gave me a pleasant experience. https://www.chaletrestaurantnewport.com/