Chinatown, Portland OR

10/27/2019

Chinatown Gate at 4th & Burnside, Portland OR; history about Chinatown at https://pdxsocialhistory.org/stories/portland-s-chinatown-gate.html The Hoxton Hotel is the dark building through the gate.

Travel to China (town) and experience the serene sights and sounds of the Lan Su Chinese Garden. Chinatown/Oldtown is the flatland of Portland, OR. You can access it easily by transit if you want to save yourself parking fees and traffic troubles. Look below for info about:

Lan Su Chinese Garden
New Year Celebration--Dragon Dance parade, 25 Jan 2020, Year of the Rat
Portland Chinatown Museum & other points of interest
Chinese Eats in Chinatown
Travel by Transit: the Max; or pay to park
July 19, 2023 updates
Entrepreneurs/Philanthropists welcome

Lan Su Chinese Gardens--photos above
Lan Su posts a calendar of its offerings by the day and the month on its website, so you can choose to go for a major event (such as Chinese New Year, the Autumn Moon Festival, or the Ninth Moon Floral Design Showcase: Mums’ favorite), or on a day when there are fewer folks, but still activities and demonstrations in which you would like to take part. Either way, go when you can spend the day without being rushed. Or get a membership and come often to soothe your soul and senses.
See https://lansugarden.org/things-to-do/event-calendar/
For more photos, scroll down at "Celebrating Chinese Style"

https://www.travelpacificnw.com/accessible-travel-blog/celebrating-chinese-style

Some of the everyday opportunities to enjoy at Lan Su

Tours (great cultural background information)
Seasonal Plant Guides; to download: https://lansugarden.org/things-to-do/ongoing-programs/
Family Discovery Guides (like a scavenger hunt) Download at the link above
Changing Art Exhibits
Calligraphy & Brush painting demonstrations
Music or Poetry in the Teahouse
Tai Chi instruction
Kung Fu classes on Tuesdays
Chinese Conversation
Poetry workshops & practice
Learn to play traditional Wei Chi (Go)
Lectures on Chinese Medicine

The garden has such a variety, that something is always in bloom. My photos are from September; there are lots of videos of the garden out there--such as at

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=lan+su+chinese+garden+portland

But no matter how many photos and videos, as well as a virtual tour on the garden’s website, nothing is the same as being there.

Accessibility
You can see all the garden views from a wheelchair. There are barriers to enter only a couple of spaces (you can still get good views). On a day they are staging performances, you will want to arrange to be where you can see before the performers get in place. You may not want to be in the same area as the audio. They have a men’s restroom, a women’s restroom, and a family type restroom—all pleasant and accessible.

Teahouse & Gift Shop
The Teahouse offers a selection of teas to enjoy there, or buy and take home, a few items to eat, and both indoor and outdoor tables. It’s very pleasant to be there when there’s a live musician playing a Chinese stringed instrument. Bring a little cash to tip the artists. The brush artist told me he gives all his tips to the support of the garden.

The Gift Shop is small, but is a splendor of wonderful things. When I was there, the Hall of Brocade Clouds also had artwork for purchase. The gifts you give give back to the Garden, and the greater community.

Autumn Moon Festival, September 14, 2019 at Lan Su Chinese Garden--photos above

Mooncake sales, beside Teahouse tasties
Folk tale storytelling
Calligraphy demonstration
Dragon dance
Dance performances
Asian yoyo demonstration
Lion Dance
Family crafts
Martial arts demo
Chinese opera

New Year Celebration--Dragon Dance parade, 25 Jan 2020, Year of the Rat; photos above
Happy Chinese New Year! What an auspicious beginning for the year of the rat! The forecast was not so propitious: we were worried that it would be a rainy, dismal day in Chinatown for the Dragon parade--but it was beautiful! Parking fills fast (even an hour early), but the little lot across from Lan Su had spaces and only costed $4 for the day, being Saturday (pay by card). I could not find out the parade route, so it was hard to get decent pictures, behind all the tall people, but I got a few that I felt good about, mostly from the point of origin 315 NW Davis St. The paraders made their way around the block, put on a little show next to Lan Su, and entertained along the way toward the Oregon Historical Society Museum, I believe. We didn't try to follow it that far, as I could see very little. The Chinese Garden, had special activities planned for the whole 2 weeks of Chinese New Year, and a few other venues offered some celebratory activities. For more photos, scroll down at "Celebrating Chinese Style"

https://www.travelpacificnw.com/accessible-travel-blog/celebrating-chinese-style

Portland Chinatown Museum

Portland Chinatown Museum & other points of interest

Portland Chinatown Museum: Photos are not allowed in the main museum, which I would have dearly loved to take. It’s a small museum but very well done. Inexpensive admission, but you can donate more to encourage a cultural heritage, or purchase something. It’s only less than 400’ from the Chinese garden to the museum. It takes less time to walk than to drive. https://www.portlandchinatownmuseum.org/
A small Chinese import shop located between the Museum and the Garden is sometimes open. I can’t find it online, and didn’t think to take pictures when I was there 10-14-19. Perhaps one could find out more by asking at the museum. The volunteer that led a tour the day we were there was very knowledgeable about the community.
The Oregon Chinese Consolidated Benevolent Association, organized in “the late 19th century” is housed in the building inscribed as the Chinese Language School (c. 1905) at 315 NW Davis St. It hosts annual events such as the Chinese New Year Dragon & Lion Parade in Chinatown and the Rose Festival Dragon Boat Races. https://www.oregonccba.org/programs-events/annual-events
Beautiful Bronze Plaques are embedded in the sidewalks of 3rd and 4th Avenues. As you walk or roll around Chinatown, look up at the interesting features of the buildings, look around at the public pieces of art, and down at the plaques. Each has a flower associated with it, and a little history to tell. A brochure maps them out and explains them. Check with the Chinese Garden or the Chinatown Museum.
If you want to stay in historic Chinatown, The Society Hotel and The Hoxton are right there and inexpensive. If you or your guests are coming by train from out of town, Union Station is a half mile from The Society Hotel. https://thesocietyhotel.com/portland/ https://thehoxton.com/oregon/portland/hotels https://www.amtrak.com/stations/pdx
The Shanghai Tunnels/Portland Underground Tours is not accessible. I tried unsuccessfully to arrange to tour their above-ground museum. It appears that only part of their website is up to date. http://portlandtunnels.com/halloween-season-ghost-tours.html They are based at the Hobo’s Restaurant & Lounge, at which I got a fabulous-tasting Chevre Quesadilla, my tasters especially loved the chipotle sauce that came with it.
The Fei Long Spa across from the Chinese Garden offers Chinese foot reflexology and massage.
Chinatown began in the 1890s as Japantown, and the Oregon Nikkei Legacy Center is located in Chinatown. Less than a quarter mile from the Center is the Japanese American Historical Plaza. For more info about that, scroll down at https://www.travelpacificnw.com/accessible-travel-blog/japanese-american-journeys
Portland’s Saturday Market is a couple blocks south of the Japanese American Historical Plaza. I’d like to treat that in a different post. https://www.portlandsaturdaymarket.com/

Chinese Eats in Chinatown
Chinese restaurants abound all around, and Chinatown is home to other kinds of cuisines (pizza, Mexican, Voodoo Donuts, etc.). But if you want to be thematic, here are some Chinese eateries within a quarter mile of the Lan Su Chinese Garden. Your proof of payment to the Chinese Garden allows you to exit and re-enter on the same day. So here are some other options for Chinese food:

Red Robe Tea House & Café has a pleasant décor and atmosphere. Soothing music is only broken in upon by the blender making smoothies (possibly a popular drink in the summer). The restroom is accessible and pleasant enough. The food is fine, the vegetables cooked right. They have a good selection of beverages, all kinds of tempting teas, including herbal, and you can buy a stash for home. Instead of the usual fortune cookie, your bill comes with a type of almond cookie. You can get a filling meal for about $8-9. http://redrobeteahouse.com/
Golden Horse Seafood Restaurant isn’t fancy, but I really enjoyed the hot & sour soup, and a dish with shrimp, scallops, and bok choy over rice. The seafood was tender and good, the bok choy cooked right. Very good. Enough for two. Not expensive. Bathroom accessible, but had a smell. https://www.goldenhorseportland.com/
Chen’s Good Taste is not accessible, but I was enticed by the duck roasting in sight of the window. The menu with prices and phone number was posted in the window, so I called, and the woman willingly came out and took my order, then brought it to the bistro tables on the sidewalk right there. As an occidental, I wasn’t that impressed with the food, though. Not too expensive. http://www.chensgoodtaste.com/
Republic Café is said to be Portland’s oldest Chinese restaurant; opened in 1922. It has seen some better days, some wilder ways, some wee-hours partying. It’s kind of dark, though it has a small dining room in the front with a picture glass window. A step up makes that inaccessible to wheelchairs. There are a few booths just behind there. I took my late lunch to-go, catch my transit home. The restrooms were unsuitable for the public. Like much of Chinatown, this icon seems in dire need of an infusion of capital. I can only answer for my own tastes, but I wasn’t that delighted with the food. Update 2022: not open until 4pm. https://republiccafeor.com/
Mandarin House Restaurant & Bar is not too far to wheel from the Chinese Garden . . . it’s in the Saturday Market district. Located up stairs, and I didn’t see an obvious elevator, I didn’t try it out. I later called and he said they do have an accessible elevator, so you may want to call ahead and make sure how to access it. https://www.mandarinhouse97204.com/

Traveling by Transit (the Max), or Pay to Park
Destination Chinatown was my first try at traveling via the Max, Portland’s Light Rail. Expecting to pay (with my Hop pass) once I got aboard, I looked all over for a place to tap it. Well, you tap it before you get on. Look for a post with the necessary place to tap (pictured below). How to ride the Max: https://trimet.org/guide/max.htm

Traveling by Max meant crossing over the I-205 freeway, on a fairly boldly declining pedestrian bridge. Despite protections on either side, my initial traverse caused this old grandma some trepidation. I saw all those vehicles speeding below me, a long way down there, and my heart, if nothing else, was quaking as I went. But, I made it, and the next time wasn’t quite as scary.

For the first time while riding transit, I was asked by an individual who appeared to be a somewhat less permanent resident, if he could use my cell phone. I was anxious to get to the train (as well as get some photos), and I admit I was glad to have an excuse. Even though he said he would let me hold it as he talked, what could I do if he snatched it and ran? I have found most people are decent, but just enough aren’t that one must be prudent.

Parking lots seem plentiful enough near the Chinese Garden, at $5/hour (or all-day rates). We were able to find parking on the street (another time we went), for $2/hour, max 2 hours (3 hours if you are disabled and pay the max). You can pay by card or coin, in 15-minute increments. Look for a rectangular, boxy post-looking thing along the block. After you pay it will give you a ticket to display on the curbside window of your vehicle. Instructions are on the ticket.

Parking Lots:
Chinatown Parking 125 NW 4th Ave
City Center Parking 220 NW 2nd Ave
Smart Park Garage 33 NW Davis St.
Here’s an interesting resource: https://en.parkopedia.com

It looks like there are a couple disabled parking spots by the Chinese Garden off NW 2nd Ave & NW Flanders St., and 5 hour parking meters on Flanders between 2nd and 4th Ave. A couple places for disabled parking are shown on NW Couch St off 1st Ave (I think).

An Opportunity to Invest in the Community, for Entrepreneurs and Philanthropists
Most of Oldtown/Chinatown looks like it could use some renovation capital. My dream would be to fund a “hostel” in which the homeless would be housed and groomed in every respect for success in the housing and hospitality industries. Connected with this would be a health clinic, also employing internships for training people who need every kind of mentoring, and recovery help for addictions. I would like to see them help one another as they develop the skills and resilience to build or rebuild their lives. I saw a program that helps at-risk youth in this way:

https://www.oldskoolcafe.org/youth-training-programs

AA and alternatives:

https://www.alcohol.org/alcoholics-anonymous/alternatives-to-the-aa-approach/

July 19, 2023 updates
Chinatown Gate at 4th & Burnside

https://pdxsocialhistory.org/stories/portland-s-chinatown-gate.html

The Hoxton Hotel--15 NW 4th Ave, Portland, OR 97209

https://thehoxton.com/portland/

Chen’s Good Taste Restaurant--18 NW 4th Ave, Portland, OR 97209
A website extant invites online orders for delivery. The COVID-19 era was not kind to Chinatown.